Took forever, but I'm finally done with the creation of this 3D kit. 
Years ago, I made a Sword of Dios resin-casted kit that was pretty popular. I feel like I sent out 1-2 of those swords a week. Even sent them off to Australia and Germany. 

Needless to say, I got burned out making them so often. And I don't really do resin kits anymore... But I've been hit up a bunch by people who thought that I had made the OG via 3d printing (sorry, totally hand sculpted ;-;) So, I had nothing to offer them, until now. 
I sculpted this in Zbrush, measuring as I went along, to try and match the dimensions as much as possible. 
3D files include the 3 pieces that make up the sword handle and then 5 pieces for the blade. It's HIGHLY recommended to use a 5mm rod to help strengthen the print and aid with alignment, as I did hollow the blade to incorporate one. 

Don't know why I didn't think to try this earlier.
I'm working on the hand/wrist portion of the Warrior right now, which is Chrome leather. Doesn't take manipulations the same way that Veg tan does. I tested to see what was possible by hand, but the results were less than I'd hoped.   
So, stamping to the rescue. Using a ripped texture from the game, I made a black and white png, which I loaded into Zbrush, applied as an alpha to the ClayBuildup brush, drew out on a thick plane, adjusted the height and ta-da. (Make sure you have Brush > Auto Mask > Backface Mask engaged, or else it will act negatively on the back)

And I tried to press it with what I had XD

It only worked so-so. But I knew I was on the right path. I did research on legit leather presses and settled on a generic Arbor press. This guy's video really sold it for me, and I've been using his tips to adjust my own. 

I've done a variety of test using tools that normal involve the use of a hammer. It's taken a few tries, but I feel like I've figured out the best way to use the stamp with Chrome leather. While Chrome doesn't react the same way to water as Veg does, it did seem to make the impression deeper and clearer, than when I did it without. Plus, I have better luck layering the leather on top of the stamp, instead of under. So the metal square pushes against the leather itself. 

Feels good to get it working. 
I've got two more stamps currently being printed right now; one for the hand tops and one for the shoes.

Got some of the jewelry that I modeled in Zbrush, printed in resin. Plan is to mold in silicone and then cast in silverclay, and finish accordingly.

Got 95% of the head piece done. Used the deColorant for the pattern. Trimmed and hand sewed on the lace. The under layer is 13 feet long and wraps around the head multiple times, with the decorated portion wrapping it again. 

After trying bleach and just straight paint, I discovered deColourant from Jacquard. I love the faded look it gave my fabric during a test. Easy to use too. Just paint it on, wait 24 hours and then iron. Beware, kinda has a rotten egg smell when being ironed. 

Also did a series of embroidery tests. 
Right most bunch was done on the machine, middle was done by hand with no stretcher, and far left is by hand with stretcher. 

I obviously favored the far left batch. But then it came down to makeing sure the back looked as good as the front. I tried a variety of knots and tucks on the back until I figured out the two by the needle. The knot is hidden under the stitches. 

Finally finished printing all the pieces for my bodyform. The decision to go this route came from the fact that sewing forms just couldn't match the exact curve of my back, and that makes certain armors difficult to draft on anything other than my own body.
I saw online that there are companies that can scan your body and then print the pieces out in a variety of materials. But the cost is often high.
Having my own reliable 3d printer, I wanted to do it myself. But being an Android user, there really isn't anything on the app store that can be used for body scanning.
And then I found this tutorial:

It uses a free program on your own computer; where you use photos in the creation of a 3d model. 
Instead of taking a bunch of photos, my husband took a video circling me in workout gear. 
I converted the video into frames and then deleted every other image or so, until I had just enough to allow the program to build the model. 

I followed the video, adjusting as needed to get a good, solid model for export. 
This was then exported and brought into zbrush for cleanup. It was mirrored and smoothed. 

And then it was brought into NetFabb for cutting up to fit on my print bed. 

24 pieces.
22 actually printed, in ABS and adhered with ABS slurry. It's just a 'bit' bigger than I am, so I'll probably do a bit of sanding. Might even add a fabric 'skin' for pinning stuff. Who knows?
Anyway, it's nice to have a solid form that matches me, and I can build leather based armors on. 

Finally starting that Elden Ring cosplay, and not any of the characters that I initially thought I'd do. 
After 150 hours (I've still not finished my first play through), I'm fallen in love with the starting Warrior set. The leather, the beads and coins, the stitching... It's everything I've been looking for in a more fabric based cosplay. 
First step was to get in-game shots, but those are okay. What I really wanted was the actual in-game assets. Which I found thanks to a discord group. 
I took those assets (model and textures) and applied them in Marmoset to get a better reference. There, I was able to zoom in and see how things overlap, play with materials to make certain things stand out and make others disappear. ​

I was also able to directly reference the texture sheets to get more detail for the creation of the decorative bits. The plan is to print some inversely to make a hard resin mold and then use PMC aka precious metal clay to create real metallic pieces. Other will be printed the normal way, with silicone molds created and then cold cast. Really depends on the location, thickness and durability needed for the piece. 
​

Currently got a good amount of the decorative bits modeled in Zbrush, as well as the chest piece patterned out. ​